
Traveling and being vegan doesn’t always mix. Sure, you can launch your VegOut application or visit Happy Cow or go to the VegGuide for that city, but it’s still no guarantee that you’ll find wonderful food outside of big, diverse places like Los Angeles, San Francisco, Portland, Seattle, or New York. We’re spoiled in LA because we’ve come to expect a variety of vegan, vegetarian, and veg-friendly food options. So when we went to Denver, Colorado recently for business (the International Society for Technology in Education 2010 conference), and saw a grand total of three vegetarian restaurants listed in VegOut (and no purely vegan ones), we were a little apprehensive to say the least. Fortunately, one of the restaurants was WaterCourse Foods, and that proved to be a gem. In fact, we tried two other restaurants in Denver (and liked City, O’ City the vegetarian pizza bar owned by WaterCourse), but always came back for more food at WaterCourse because of the variety and quality.
Within minutes of reaching the city, before even checking in to our hotel, we decided to visit WaterCourse. It was lunch time, and we’d mainly eaten snacks on the road. The first positive mark was the atmosphere. The servers were very friendly and polite, and there was a warm feeling everywhere. When we walked in, we saw a double display case full of bakery items… From fancy looking cakes and pies to cookies, muffins, and cinnamon rolls (just to name a few things). Naturally, we didn’t get overly excited and asked, “Which of these items are vegan?” When the hostess replied, “All of them,” we knew that this wasn’t just any old vegetarian restaurant.
After being seated, we began looking through the menu. First thing I noticed was that they served breakfast till 5:00 pm. Huge bonus there! I love breakfast and brunch items anytime I can get it. And pretty much anything can be made vegan by omitting the cheese. Sure, it would be nice if they would serve Daiya, but if the demand isn’t there yet, then I’m not going to fault them.

We started with the Seitan Buffalo Wings. You have the option of having it with buffalo, BBQ, or teriyaki sauce, so we chose the traditional buffalo sauce. The texture of the seitan was really interesting in a good way. What I mean by that is the seitan I make at home is a little more dense and pleasantly chewy, and WaterCourse’s is much more airy and light. There was a reason for this. The lightness of the seitan basically allowed any sauce to fully infuse into the pieces, which is exactly what happened with the buffalo sauce, and WOW, what a sauce! It was tangy and spicy. The celery and vegan ranch that it came with were welcome sides to cool down our mouths. We loved it… Really really loved it. The one small problem… Which shouldn’t even be considered much of a problem is that the serving portions are HUGE. So our family of four could get through the appetizer without problem, but we couldn’t finish our entrees! So, if you’re planning on having appetizers, be sure to consider sharing entrees afterward.

Dumpling decided to have the Thai Peanut Stir Fry with grilled tofu. The tofu was nicely grilled and quite firm to stand up to the sauce and veggies. The veggies were crisp and fresh. The dish was good… Not great. I guess when you have a whole slew of vegan and vegetarian Thai places in Los Angeles, you appreciate great peanut sauces. If the sauce were a little more robust, it would have stood up to the thick tofu better…or maybe if we had chosen breaded tofu, it would have absorbed more sauce. Of all the dishes we had in this first meal, this one was the least favorite. That said, it kicked the butt of anything else we could get in Denver or Utah, so take our very light criticism with a grain of salt. Another bonus was the brown rice it was served with. I love the fact that brown rice was the norm here.

I chose to have breakfast (of course) and selected The Conejos without the cheese, a beautiful dish of scrambled tofu, tempeh chorizo, home fries, salsa, and avocado with a choice of bread (I went with the corn tortillas). This was one hearty dish. The slight tanginess of the salsa worked perfectly with the salty, earthy tempeh chorizo, and it was all tempered with the creaminess of the avocado. The tofu and potatoes added body and absorbed the flavors well. It was fantastic! I was most amazed by the tempeh chorizo. It wasn’t too spicy, but had such a great flavor. I’ve had plenty of soyrizo and similar things, but they’ve all been based on soy or TVP, so it was wonderful to have one based on tempeh!

Baby Corn takes after me, so she chose to have breakfast for lunch and selected the Breakfast Burrito without the cheese. Even without the appetizer, this would have been difficult to finish on her own. It’s understandable, considering the fact that the burrito was ginormous! Almost the size of her head, it was chock full of refried beans, tofu, and home fries, and it was smothered in a green chile sauce. Each ingredient in the filling was great alone, and it was even better all combined. The green chile sauce was balanced with sour and salty flavors, and it had a nice little kick to it. Not too spicy… Definitely not as spicy as the buffalo sauce… It had great warmth and depth of flavor.

Sweet Potato went with a sandwich called The Grinder and, of course, opted for no cheese. It’s a French baguette stuffed with shaved seitan, onions, bell peppers, mushrooms, and avocado served with an au jus. Think of it as a fancy vegan French dip. This was incredible… Really really incredible. The seitan seemed more firm than the one used for the Buffalo Seitan Wings. It was pleasantly chewy with a little saltiness. The onions, peppers, and mushrooms were all lightly sauteed but not mushy. The avocado added creaminess and a full-bodied flavor. What can I say about the au jus it was served with? It was like a nice broth with a little soy sauce or liquid aminos. I’m sure there were other spices and such, but the bottom line was that it was amazing. It seasoned and moistened the baguette without overpowering the rest of the sandwich. The Grinder, like all the sandwiches and wraps, came with two sides. There are some great sides here… From mashed potatoes and gravy to the soup du jour to fries to steamed greens to brown rice… In fact, there were even more options than I’ve listed. Sweet Potato went with the steamed greens and sweet potatoes. The sweet potatoes were okay, but the greens were excellent. All in all, this was our favorite dish of lunch. If you visit, make sure you try the mashed potatoes and gravy, soup, or quinoa salad. Those were phenomenal!
We had no room for dessert after lunch… In fact, none of us even came close to finishing our meals. We would have stuffed ourselves more so that we would waste less, but like the Buddhist saying, “if you finish your meal when you’re full, you’re still wasting the food.” It was a learning experience for all of us. We ordered too much, but didn’t make the same mistake again. We went back for dinner that night (and dinner the next night, and lunch the following day), so we had plenty of other opportunities to finish other meals and order dessert. Suffice to say that dessert is great at WaterCourse. On our other visits, we tried some of the muffins, the Scout Cookie, the Sweet Potato Cinnamon Roll, and slices of the Boston Cream Pie and Chocolate Cake. The muffins and Cinnamon Roll make a great breakfast. They have gluten free muffins as well. The cakes were sweet, but also had other flavors to give them depth. The girls loved the Boston Cream Pie the most, but I really liked the Scout Cookie. Just imagine a big, wholesome, vegan Samoa-like cookie… But better (and vegan). Next time we’ll be sure to take photos before finishing them.
We really enjoyed everything we tried there (food-wise… Not just desserts). By the second meal, we’d learned the trick to ordering… One appetizer, two entrees, and a dessert for the four of us. We’ll also make sure that we order more of their vegan milkshakes! The food is fancy yet down to earth, the prices are fair, and the service was excellent. I have to admit, although there’s a plethora of vegan and vegetarian places in the Greater Los Angeles area, very few match WaterCourse for quality and variety. It ranks right up there in our favorites with Madeleine Bistro, Shojin, and Cha-Ya. Props to the two Lucases who served us. We wish we had eaten there more times, but we’ll save that for a later visit. Unfortunately, my business doesn’t usually take me to Denver, but we’ll be looking forward to the next time we make it to the Mile High City. And on that future visit, we plan on just going to WaterCourse for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
WaterCourse Foods
837 E. 17th Ave.
Denver, CO 80218
303.832.7313